I'm back with part two of my Tyranid play tests. I've learned a lot so far about these guys and how they work.  So far I've been working with the swarm mentality, but after these last games I'm beginning to think that some spores may be necessary to take down Mech lists that are designed to stand off (like my Looted Mech Guard) in any sort of a timely fashion.

Game 3 was at Time Warp Comics and Games in Ashland, VA.  I met a cool dude named Jake, who really seemed to know the game, and his army. He was fielding Mech Orks with several Battlewagons, Trukks and Gun Wagons, and oh yeah Ghazghkull Thraka.

I knew from the onset this would be a good game, because Orks especially with Ghaz can pound some face. Plus I really felt I had this list optimized to at least hold its own against Mech.

1850 List

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• Hive Tyrant, Lashwhip Bonesword Paroxysm, Psychic Scream, Old Adversary; 3 Tyrant Guard
• Tyranid Prime Lashwhip Bonesword, Deathspitter, Poison Sacs
• Hive Guard x3
• Zoeanthrope x3
• Tyranid Warriors x7 Deathspitters, Poison Sacs
• Hormagaunts x15
• Hormagaunts x15
• Termagants x12
• Termagants x12
• Carnifex w/ Brain Leech Worms x2
• Carnifex w/ Brain Leech Worms x2
• Venomthrope

So we played pitched battle, and he got the first turn.  His set up was simple but effective; Battlewagon 1 and Two trukks on his right flank, staggered by another Battlewagon towards his mid table and another trukk. The Gun Wagons were set up directly across the middle line to get good LOS on my formation.

I set up with the Tyrant squad in the middle of the table to I react quick to anything that punched my line, with my warriors on my left, 'Fexes on my right. I put the Zoes behind the Carnifexes to zap at his wagons, and keep the synapse on the right half if my Tyrant engaged left.  The Venomthrope was strategically placed in the center of it all, within 6" of all my squads. I threw Termagant screens in front of the Warriors and Fexes to try to thwart any Orky assaults. The hive guard supported the Tyrant.

He rushed at me with everything, I nuked any armor that got with the 18" of my 'fexes and Zoes. The Hive Guard blasted what they could but bounced off due to some bad rolls. He hit with the Battlewagon on the flank and nuked my Hormagaunts that were there.  Then his trukk with Ghaz and his Nobz hit and the Tyrant stepped up and won combat due to Paroxysm, and perfered enemy.  Once the waaagh went away, and Ghaz lost his 2+ Invunerable, he was torn to pieces by the Tyrant.

I pretty much mopped up the rest of the army from there, but it wasn't till turn 4 or 5 so it wasn't a blow out or anything like that.  I was still happy with my bugz performance, especially the Tyrant whom is now a confirmed powerhouse of fury.

What I learned:

• Tyrant with Paroxysm and Prefered Enemy pretty much rock the house, and can take down any takers in the Close Combat department. I'm thinking of kitting him out with something else- shooting weapon wise perhaps because he doesn't really need the Scything talons with the PE re-roll. 
• Venomthrope was mildly effective mostly because there was little shooting to defend against.  He did save the Termagant shields a little so that helps.  Have to try him out a bit more against Mech or Razorwolf to see if hes worth the points.
• Termagant speed bumps are worth every one of their 5 points per model. They keep your big stuff from getting assaulted, provide cover saves, and can just hunker down and hold stuff if necessary. 
• The Carnifexes are very effective with the Zoes backing them up. I like the combined arms of lancing open transports, and mowing down the occupants with STR 6 fire.  This combo is also effective with the Zoes behind Warriors, but feels like a waste of synapse.
• Poison Sacs are great. Re-roll to wounds are worth the points, however with PE from the Tyrant they are either redundant or amazing depending on the points cost.
• Hive Guard are a good choice for supporting up the middle, blasting open armor for the Tyrant or 'Fexes. 

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The next game I played was at Adventures Guild in Harrionburg, PA. We showed up a day early for Cabin Fever GT '10, and decided to get in a playtest game.  My opponent was long time Guard player AJ "Serious Offense" Nagle. He's been playing guard for about 6 years now, so I thought it would be fun to line up against them again. After all that's how the Hive Mind learns.....

I ran the same list above, which I'm officially dubbing "Blocks" cause that's really just what it is, blocks of Nids that work together well, and can absorb a lot of damage that if they do.  Soon I'll be splashing some spores, but for now Blocks it is

This is my first of hopefully many playtest videos. There is no cool music cause I'm trying not to piss off Google, but I still think it's good.  LMK what you think about the video and my 'Nid evolution thus far.

-MBG Rob Baer

Okay so this just hit, and you gotta admit its pretty funny. I'm sure it will go viral soon.

For the record Spikey Bits does not agree with the war, the holocaust, natzis or their zombies.  But I do like satire....

So I had a chance to playtest my nids over the last week, and overall I'm very happy with their performance.  I've learned a lot and I think these guys really can do some damage to all comers, including Imperial Guard Mech.

My first list variant went up against my Ork Mech Guard. You can checkout that army list here.




List 1 1850

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• Swarmlord
• 2x Guard with lashes
• 3x Zoeanthrope
• 3x Hive Guard
• 2x Carnifex w/ Brain Leech Worms
• Tervigon
• 10x Termagants
• 10x Termagants
• 10x Termagants
• 20x Hormagaunts
• 20x Hormagaunts

We just lined up 12" in and went at it. The tanks were deployed from the left edge to midtable in a firing formation.  I just ran at him with the 'fexes and Tervigon making a slight flank. It was a tough fight and after my synapse broke on turn 3 with not too many tanks popped, I reworked it some more.
 This was the Tyranids first try, they had to adapt.

What I learned:

• Psychic Hoods shut down nids. They dont just shut them down they smack them in the face and say "NO". Why? Well an average roll on a hood negates any psychic power. So no Lances from the Zoes, no buffs from the Broodlord, nada, nothing.  Now there is a counter to this, the Deathleaper, which gives one enemy model -d3 LD if hes alive. 
• Carnifexes get 12 S6 Twin Linked Shots! However they are 190 points now, which may seem terribly steep but you have to remember 8 shots for 115 may have been under priced.  Anyways I like them because they give your opponent something else to shoot and you can hide stuff behind them.  Plus if protected by a Termagant speed bump, great staying power and counter assault especially when combined with preferred enemy from a nearby Tyrant/ Swarmlord.
• Hive Guard rock. There really isn't much bad to say about these guys, even thought their save is 4+.  Hide them behind a Tyrant squad, or 2 'fexes and they will serve you well.
• Rolling doubles sucks when spawning Termagants with the Tervigon, cause you can't spawn any more!  Lucky me I did it on my first try.  I mean its good for holding objectives but bad for it's main purpose.
• Swarmlords, and Tyrants for that matter, die unless they have 3 Tyrant Guard, the end period. When you add in that third guard it seems to make shooting at the squad a waste. You really have to try to burn down a 3 guarded HQ.  The best way I think to defeat it is to just give it table space and time.
  

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My second game was against Brother Chaplain Ginn of Dakka Dakka fame.  He brought a janky foot Marine list that gave me a run for my money. In the end it would have probably been a draw- he could have very easily cut me down had he rolled better.

He lined up from his mid-table to his right edge, and I counted with my mid to my left edge. It was killpoints so I figured I'd stand off for a while and then smash his flank.  There was also one of those Chaos Ruined Temple terrain pieces in the middle of the board making life difficult for my movement.
We both danced around for a few turns countering each others thrusts, but in the end I got burnt down a little too quick in the beginning to make it a massacre.

List 2 1850

• Hive Tyrant, Lashwhip Bonesword Paroxysm, Psychic Scream, Old Adversary; 3 Tyrant Guard
• Tyranid Prime Lashwhip Bonesword, Deathspitter, Poison Sacs
• Hive Guard x3
• Deathleaper
  
• Zoeanthrope x3
• Tyranid Warrios x6 Deathspitters, Poison Sacs
• Hormagaunts x15
• Hormagaunts x15
• Termagants x10
• Termagants x10 
• Mawloc
• Genestealers x12

What I learned:

• Mawloc- Whomever wrote his rules was either drunk or high at the time (or possible both). the wording makes no sense, however the meaning is there.  We played it RAW and he sucked, burned down in one turn.  Very sad, I had higher hopes for that fella.
• Hive Tyrant FTW! This squad made it clear across the board and hit like a ton of bricks.  Making the enemy Initiative 1, BS1 WS1 and re-rolling your hits is quite possible the most broken thing in 40k right now.  I highly recommend it, please try it at home.
• Warriors spit hot fire!  Wow these guys really came on strong.  They are relatively cheap and deal out 21 S5 shots at BS4 within 18", plus they hold their own in combat? Throw them behind a Termagant speed/cover bump and they are an amazing asset. They basically can hold a quarter and say "mine".
• Genestealers while slightly nerfed still require a response from your enemy. Especially if you infiltrate them on a flank.
• Deathleaper is a wussy. Better keep him hidden if you are trying to mess with you enemy commander's head. He really only can hurt a small understrength squads. Better uses are to contest objectives, and provide disruption than for full on engagement.  Plus the fact he isn't synapse gives me some doubts.
• Swarmlords are expensive. OMG 280 points, I think ill keep him in the case for bigger games. I also prefer the Tyrant's effect based Preferred Enemy than the lord's targeting one.

Okay so that's it for part one.  I've got two more great playtest games ready to go for the next post, one of them from the GT I went to over the weekend.

What do you think so far about my lists?

Well I'm putting the finishing touches on my Ork Guard army and getting ready to to battle this weekend in the Cabin Fever '10 GT.  This event is put on by Rich Ditzler of Adventurers Guild Gaming in Harrisburg, PA.  For those of you that don't know Rich, he is both a great guy and a competent tourney player himself!

I last played in the event in 2005 and I was defiently impressed by it. So it's good to finally be going back to the frozen tundra of Central Pennsylvania.

Check back here next week for bat reps galore!

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My 1850 list for the event.

Co Command Squad, Chimera 4x Melta Astropath

Inquisitor Lord w/ Hood 2x Mystics 1x Hierophant

Veteran Squad, Chimera 2 Plasma, 1 Lascannons
Veteran Squad, Chimera 2 Plasma, 1 Lascannons
Veteran Squad, Chimera 2 Plasma, 1 Lascannons
Veteran Squad, Chimera 3 Melta Demolitions 
Veteran Squad, Chimera 2 Melta Flamer

Vendetta
Vendetta

Hydra x2
Maticore x2

That's it. Lots of synergy, disruption and firepower.  What do you think of the final list?

Hey checkout all the great new Tyranid articles over at From The Warp. Inside the Hive Mind

Its a great page of blog compilations from around the web, all dealing with the new release of the bugs.

Be sure to check back here later this week 1/29 for my big Tyranid Playtest report.

-MBG

Well I'm back again, taking a break from playtesting and converting up my Waterbugz, to take a closer look at the new big nasty Trygon.  I had the good fortune to purchase one from Forgewold a few years ago, but never got around to painting it. So now we can compare these two close up!

First off you can see the new plastic model comes with the new oval Valkyrie base which is definitely better for games of regular 40k.  The Claws on the FW Trygon are way better looking both detail wise and size.  I realize its a burrowing creature, BUT I just like sharp objects to impale my enemies with.

I think the Tail section of the plastic one contains more detail, however the ribbing on the FW one has better detail/ depth.  The torso spikes were much easier to glue and position in plastic than the resin one even though there were many more to attach.

A quick look at the back profile shot shows that the carapace is waaaay better detailed on the FW model, and it's claws look even awesome as well from this angle.   It almost makes me want to run and putty up the vents on my plastic model.... almost.

The jaw details looks better on the plastic one, but you can still see more depth on the FW model. The depth, however, may go away with I paint it, or I may even be able to pull it off with shading on the plastic one.

So that's it overall. I think detail wise the FW is better as a whole, but for assembling and converting the new plastic kit is the clear winner.  Resin or plastic what do you prefer?

A long time ago in the midst of the rise of "Zillanids" I started my Tyranid army. One of the things I wanted to do was make my bugs look different that anyone elses. I had seen some people convert their Canifexes by mounting them on their short shaft of a tail, and remove the legs.

I really liked that look, but thought I could do better than that.  I wanted them coming up out of the water like they would have done during their first contact battle on Tyran Prime.  So I scowered the Internets and my bits catalogs and came up with the old High Elf Dragon body, the one that is curvy and looks like Trogdor.

From there I had to plane down the bottom of the body to a flush surface to fit on the base. Then I added the standard Carnifex nipple to the top of this assembly, so I could connect the Carnifex torso to the HE Dragon torso.

Now for those bug fanatics out there don't worry- I also added a third set of appendages (for a total of six) to the model to keep the fluff and synergy intact. To finish off the model, I added extended carapace bits down the back of its spine to make the two pieces cohesive, and work together.

Fortunately I had magnetized the weapon arms, so now all I have to do is paint up some new arms and hit the base up with some water effects and it's done.

What kinda of Tyranid conversions would you like to see come out during this re-release?

Here is my WIP conversion of the new Tyranid Harpy model.   It's basically supposed to be a flying monstrous creature, so I figured I'd base it off the Carnifex and let the rest just materialize as I go.  I'll be working on cranking out all the special Tyranid creatures over the next few months, this guy being the first.

So I started off I with the Carnifex top torso, but flipped it so the bottom of the torso is where the head would go.  Then I used the Hive Tyrant legs to give slim it down a bit and separate it from the two distinct profiles of the Carnifex, and Tyrant. The wings are from the new High Elf Dragon model, and work quite well to open the model up and draw attention to it. I drilled a hole for the shafts to plug into on the carapace, and magnetized the ends for extra support. Having the wings seperate makes for much easier transportion and storage, believe me.

I had the rest of the dragon kit left over, so I thought the huge rock will go great with my swarm's theme (more on that later) and make a kick ass base to mount this baddie to. I attached the model to the base with some pins, and paused to reflect on my progress.

I think it's coming along quite nicely, what you do you think?

Here is my current 1850 Imperial Guard Army List. This is a pretty competitive list and won't make you a lot of friends in casual play. 

I took the Pysker Battle Squad out because I feel the Psyhic Hood is a better buy for the rise of Tyranid powers and proof against the standard threats of Space Wolves, Eldar, and Chaos. All four of those factions seem to dominate the Tournaments I go to.

If you encounter a rogue Nob Biker list just use your Chimeras to box them out and hit them with all the firepower at your disposal. 

If you have the new Army Builder 3.2 be careful because there are several errors encountered when making this list. It charges you more for Hydra Squads, and defaults to mortars on the Heavy Weapon Teams, and does not make you take 3 henchmen for your HQ Inquisitor.

1850 Pts - 5th Edition Roster

HQ: Company Command Squad (7#, 175 pts)
   4 Company Command Squad Meltagun x4; Astropath; Chimera
      1 Company Commander

HQ: Inquisitor Lord (3#, 77 pts)
   1 Inquisitor Lord [OM] @ 77 pts (Psychic Hood)
     2 Mystic [OM] (Laspistol; Close Combat Weapon)
     1 Hierophant [OM] (Laspistol; Close Combat Weapon)
     
Troops: Veteran Squad (11#, 175 pts)
   7 Veteran Squad @ 175 pts Shotgun x5; Plasmagun x2; Veteran Weapons Team Lascannon; Chimera

Troops: Veteran Squad (11#, 175 pts)
   7 Veteran Squad @ 175 pts Shotgun x5; Plasmagun x2; Veteran Weapons Team Lascannon; Chimera

Troops: Veteran Squad (11#, 175 pts)
   7 Veteran Squad @ 175 pts Shotgun x5; Plasmagun x2; Veteran Weapons Team Lascannon; Chimera

Troops: Veteran Squad (11#, 175 pts)
   7 Veteran Squad @ 175 pts Shotgun x5; Plasmagun x2; Veteran Weapons Team Lascannon; Chimera  


Troops: Veteran Squad (11#, 185 pts)
   9 Veteran Squad @ 185 pts  Demolition Charge; Melta Bombs; Shotgun x6; Meltagun x3; Chimera; Demolitions 1 Veteran Sergeant
-----------------) Fast Attack: Vendetta Gunship Squadron (1#, 130 pts)

Troops: Veteran Squad (11#, 150 pts)
   9 Veteran Squad @ 150 pts Shotgun x6; Flamer x1; Meltagun x2; Chimera  1 Veteran Sergeant -----------------) Fast Attack: Vendetta Gunship Squadron (1#, 130 pts)     

Heavy Support: Manticore Rocket Launcher (1#, 160 pts)
   1 Manticore Rocket Launcher @ 160 pts (Storm Eagle Rockets; Searchlight; Smoke Launchers; Heavy Flamer)

Heavy Support: Manticore Rocket Launcher (1#, 160 pts)
   1 Manticore Rocket Launcher @ 160 pts (Storm Eagle Rockets; Searchlight; Smoke Launchers; Heavy Flamer)

Heavy Support: Hydra Flak Tank Battery 21#, 150 pts)
   2 Hydra Flak Tank Battery @ 75 pts
      2 Hydra Flak Tank (Auto-targeting System; Heavy Bolter; Searchlight; Smoke Launchers; Twin-Linked Hydra Autocannons x2)

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Here is another set up for pitched battle. I bunched up in the middle because of an outflank threat. I try to screen the Maticores with the Hydras.

Okay so that's my guard and how I set it up. Hit me up if you have any questions about the new guard.

Hope everyone had a happy holiday!  Well I'm back with a fully belly and some new conversions for everyone to checkout.

Here are some Imperial Guard Greatcoat / Traitor Guard conversions that are easy to convert and will  really make your foot troops stand out. You can really have some fun with these conversions because a lot of the parts are 100% interchangeable, and even if you don't use certain parts on your stock troopers, the extra trimmings can make command sections and sergeants really stand out.

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This guy was made using, of all things, Vampire Counts bits. The legs and shoulder pads are from the Grave Guard kit. The arms are standard Cadian bits, and the rucksack is a Catachan bit.  The head is from the Pig Iron range called Kolony Militia.  They also produce some other great Imperial Guard ish stuff, prefect for renegades and loyalist commanders.

The whole conversion was pretty simple. Just snip off the Cadian shoulder plates and lay the Grave Guard ones on flat. The torso will need a little support as the Grave Guard torso is placed slouched onto the legs. You can fix all this with the addition of ammo packs or other gubbins across the front waist of the model.

Here is a gallery of painted figures I have produced.

I plan to update this page very regularly with new work, as well as old work, as I photograph it. These pics should also be in a slideshow on the right nav bar of this blog.

If you have any questions about how I painted a particular fig please email me and I will be glad to help you as best I can.

Just click on any image and use the right and left arrow keys to scroll though the gallery.
Enjoy- MBG

One of the coolest conversions I've ever done is the Imperial Guard Valkyrie Jet. The best part about this model is that can represent almost any flying vehicle in the Warhammer 40k universe. Just add some Lascannons on the wingtips and you have a Lightning, or model both engines, one each wing, and you have a Thunderbolt. Add a few Orky bits and you have a Ork Fighter or a Fighter Bomber. Make it a little pointer and it becomes a bit Chaotic. I suppose you can even use it as a Valkyrie/ Vendetta, although it may get a little windy for the embarked troops. All this for the price of a Valkyrie kit!
So here is a step by step guide for this conversion. The only part that is hard per ce is converting the cockpit assembly. After that it is all downhill. So grab you tools and follow along with my guide, but remember to be safe and if you are a youngster get your parents help with this. Spikeybits is for the children.

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These are the parts you will need to start with. The tail fins you may not need right yet, but I think they were all around the same spot so I may have clipped them to save time. I used Testors Plastic Glue with applicator tip for almost all the assembly of this model. Just apply the glue like normal and then dab the wet glue with a paper towel and it will become tacky and adhere better.

First you are going to need to remove the area highlighted in red on the left and right fuselage pieces. I used a bonesaw and just removed it all in one cut. The line that you need to cut down follows the recessed area that the wings normally fit into.It should look like the piece on the right when you are done.
Now turn over the pieces you just cut and remove the support structure highlighted in red above.You want the whole interior flush with the outer wall. You will be putting the cockpit assembly in here. I used side cutters and just snipped it off using the inner wall as a guide.  File it down if necessary afterwords.

Another easy step is just to take the right and left front cockpit pieces and remove the area highlighted in red. I found that its easier to cut it from the inside, like the pic on the right. Again I used a bonesaw and sliced down the diagonal line shown with one cut.

You should now have two of the pieces shown on the left. Now just cut off thier rear sections, again highlighted in red, and following the diagonal line shown.

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Now you are ready to start the cockpit assembly. Take the front nose plate and attach the two cockpit frames to it as shown.

Now attach the front pilots seat with controls to the assembly. You have to use a random piece of sprue to support the seat in the rear. I used regular super glue and  zip kicker to attach the support bar so it would give the plastic glue around the rest of it time to set.  You have to make sure the sides of the hull attach to the inside cockpit or else you clear glass will not sit right. I used a glue cap to prop the whole thing up while it was drying. As the whole thing starts to set be sure to dry fit your clear cockpit glass and make adjustments as needed. (P.S. this step is annoying but important.)


Once the cockpit assembly is dry, test fit the two long fuselage pieces to it.  You can see how they attach to each other in the picture on the left. Now the tricky part is to figure out the measurement for the horizontal supports that will hold the fuselage together.

The grid squares on my mat are about one inch, so your supports will be between 3/4" to 1" wide.  Cut them out of random sprue and attach the first one in the very rear. Keep the whole thing flush, don't let one side bulge out or anything. Use the front cockpit assembly to line things up, but attach it last. I used glue and kicker the fuselage supports to give me quick strength. After those are dry and things are all lined up, use plastic glue to attach the cockpit assembly.

Attach a square of plastic card to the bottom as shown. Make sure you don't cross the red line as the jet engine will go here. I think I used .20" width card on this project, but feel free to use whatever will fit and look good.


Now you have to make the top of the fuselage. Grab the Valkyrie engine block piece shown, and set it down next to your assembly. (you dont have to attach the front of the engine block) As you can see in the picture on the left some of the fuselage must be removed to accommodate the top. Make sure that your assembly is dry and mark out where you will need to cut. While you are doing all of this keep in mind he top of this piece you are adding has to square up with your cockpit glass. So multiple dry fits are needed here as well to make sure your glass will fit snug. Don't forget the plastic frame as well that attaches over the glass- that will truly define where these two pieces touch.

Again I used my bonesaw to get a straight edge when cutting into the top of the fuselage. You could probably used clippers if you dont mind using putty to make a straight edge later. As it stands you will have to putty in the highlighted area in green on both sides of the frame. You may want to add some plastic card to give you a bottom to add putty to in that area as well. Otherwise you will just lose the putty into the hull!  More on this later, from here the rest of this conversion is pretty easy.

Before you start on the wings, mix up a batch of Kneadatite (Green Stuff) and fill in the gaps in the mid fuselage area.  Just take it slow and follow the taper of the plane.  I added in one of the panel gaps as well to make it blend in better. You can do as much or as little as you want here.

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Grab your normal Valkyrie wing sections and cut them, again with your bonesaw, where they bend. You also have to trim the wing tip thrusters and the landing skid housing off as well. This is so the wing is flat like a jet fighter's would be.  I found that it is easier to trim down the wings before you glue the top and bottom halves together.  After the glue has dried cut them in half using the bend in the wing as a guide. You may also have to make a secondary cut to square the left and right wing halves up. I used a combination of the bonesaw, clippers and 100 grit sandpaper for this.  When it's all said and done you should have the four wing sections pictured.


Now you have to cover up those unsightly gaps in wings with a little plastic card. I made a pattern so all the panels would look the same, and used a leather punch to add rivets to the plates so that they matched the existing stricture.


In order to give you wings the strength they need to not fall off, you have to pin the halves and then the whole wing assembly to the fuselage. A little trick I use for pinning is to cut the pins then put them in a upside down base. Then I hit them with some Kicker and leave them to soak in for a second. I apply glue to the holes I drilled and use my side clippers like tweezers to place the pins in the pre-drilled holes.  Make sure your area is ventilated or do this outside cause this stuff will give you a headache, and it causes cancer in California.

You can see I used 2 pins per piece. Use the horizontal lines as a guide to drill your holes. Don't glue the wings together yet.


Now you have to attach your wings to the hull. You will want to line up the bottom of the wing with the highlighted line in red.  Once you figure out where the pins will attach to the fuselage drill your holes as normal. However make the rear hole a bit bigger so that you can adjust the taper of the wing to the bottom of the hull. Its very hard to line the two holes up perfectly so this gives you a little wiggle room to make the wings perfectly flush with the bottom of the hull.


Use plastic glue only attach closest wing halves on.  As its starting to bond use kicker and glue to secure the pins to the hull. You have to flip the assembly over and glue into the hull from the bottom for this, but its pretty easy. Then add the wingtip halves on and your wing is finished.


 Assemble the engine as normal, except to not add the turbine bit to the end. Once its dry add it to the bottom of the plane as shown. The front lines up with the piece of plastic card you attached earlier. If your fuselage is too wide for the engine, just cut a strip of plastic card to attach it to.  The rest of the fuselage will be covered with card from here on out.


So grab some plastic card and cut out sections to enclose the rest of the fuselage. Once those were dry I cut more sections and added rivets to them to make the whole thing blend together.


The last step is to add your tail fins. They attach just like normal although they are upside down from the placement on the Valkyrie.  Now its best to let the whole thing dry for awhile. So find some way to suspend it with the weight on the wings. This way they should dry straight and it also won't interfere with the drying of the lower fins and engine.

If you know what vehicle you are making you can add weapons and icons at any time. Don't forget about the pilot and adding your canopy glass once you are done painting it.

Here is some extreme close ups of my jet. I'll be working on this puppy some more in the future.